Glacier washout, Yellowstone rocks, and chillin' in the Tetons

Wow, our feet are some tired. We have really been putting some miles on our hiking boots the past couple of weeks. We left Canada on Monday, August 30, and drove south to Glacier National Park in the US. Once again the weather plagued us on this leg of the trip, while we had some sun on the drive down, the weather started to deteriorate as we got closer to the park. By Tuesday morning it was cold and raining, and the mountains were totally socked in by low clouds and fog. Being the troopers that we are, we decided to go hiking anyway... thinking maybe it would clear later in the day - yeah right. We started our hike at Logan Pass which sits on the continental divide along the famous Going to the Sun road, which traverses the range. It was 33 degrees with light rain and snow flurries and gusty wind as we hit the trail. The Highline Trail is one of the most scenic and dramatic hikes in the country, skirting towering cliffs, crossing high alpine meadows, and offering views of some of the last remaining glaciers left in the continental US. We only know this from reading the guide book ... we could only see about twenty feet in front of us for most of the hike!

Despite the weather, we had a lovely hike, once in awhile catching a glimpse of the surrounding peaks though a hole in the clouds, focusing on the myriad of wildflowers in the meadows, and even stumbling upon the occasional Big horn sheep.

By Wednesday morning it was still cold and rainy, and the forecast was for at least another day of bad weather, so we packed up the wet tent and headed south for Yellowstone. This being Tammara's birthday, we started out the day with a dry and warm breakfast at a cafe outside of Glacier park. We tootled across western Montana, dodging towering thunderheads and battling gusty winds most of the way. By the time we reached the little town of Gardiner, just outside the north entrance to the park, the temperatures had finally warmed to summertime norms and the sun was shining. We booked a hotel room and enjoyed the comforts of civilisation.

On Thursday, September 2, we entered the park and set up camp at the Tower Falls campsite. We were pleased to find the the park was not all that crowded, after hearing of traffic jams being common in the summer, we had been worried. The day was sunny and gloriously warm so we decided to ... take a hike. We did a fairly easy half day hike up Mount Washburn, which essentially follows a gated forest access road to the top, where a manned fire lookout tower is located. The views from the top were spectacular - offering an overview of the whole park from up high.

On Friday we did the traditional driving tour around the park, stopping at many of the parks highlights: Yellowstone Canyon, Yellowstone Lake, and of course many of the geysers and Old Faithful. We did some short walks, but mostly we drove. We saw lots of bison and a few other sightings of deer, elk, and antelope. It was really a wonderful place and a beautiful day.

Late that afternoon we headed out of the park and continued southward to Driggs, Idaho to meet up with friends and work colleagues, Michael Whitfield and Liz Davy. Michael is a life-long resident of the area and had agreed to lead us on an adventure through the heart of the Tetons. We had an extra day before our back country trip was to begin, so we took the day to repack, organize and explore Driggs.

We even had time for a lovely paddle down the Teton River, which meanders though the basin just west of the Teton range. The section we canoed passes though mostly protected land trust properties and is an unspoiled gem. For lunch along the way, we even met up with fellow LTA Saratogian, Ethan Winters and his mom, who recently acquired a property along the river with the goal of protecting it as well - totally small world.

On Sunday, September 5, we started out on a four day backpack crossing the Teton range. We started out on the west side, hiking through national forest wilderness. We hiked about ten miles in and camped next to a beautiful little mountain pond. The next day we had an incredible hike up into the high country, mostly all off trail. This is a region that is rarely visited due to its long distance from the main trail heads and its rugged terrain. We crossed into the National Park at the divide and explored a whole series of high elevation ponds and even climbed to the top of a 11,000 + foot peak. It was one of the most magical day we have ever had.

We returned to the same campsite our second night out. The following morning we hoisted full packs back on and hiked once again across high mountain passes and over to the other side of the range. It was a long day of hiking, but stunning scenery all the way. After crossing the divide we hiked down through upper Webb Canyon and searched for a place to camp. There wasn't a lot of flat ground down there and eventually ended up in a small grassy patch along a willow slough. The area was surrounded by berries and was also an obvious wildlife corridor. We were a bit nervous of the bear or moose encounter potential of the site, but alas, we all survived the night.

The next morning we hiked out the long trail back to civilisation. We passed an abundance of waterfalls, hiked along and though the creek, and eventually down to Jackson Lake, which sits at the very base of the Teton range. Finally, at the end of our 30+ mile crossing, we were met at the end of the trail by friends and colleagues, Kathy and Lary, who greeted us with hugs, cold beer, and snacks!

We tootled back along the east side of the lake and mountains and later met up with Liz for a hearty dinner in Moose, Wyoming. It was a trip of a lifetime, what an incredible place. Thank you Michael for sharing your backyard and friendship.

Today it's time to clean up, do laundry and head back to the road. We'll spend the next few days crossing Idaho and Oregon, on to our next destination, the Sisters Oregon Folk Festival. Stay tuned.